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BEEKEEPING

FOR BEGINERS

If You like to spend time in, and feel the care of nature, pollution and a healthy diet, then You came to this page, and probably thinking of starting to deal with it, and that is why this text is intended for You who are just starting to be engaged in beekeeping.
Of course, as befor, first check if there are legally prescribed conditions for keeping bees ! ! !

   Beekeeping is very popular and very lucrative business.

   The area where hives are kept is called a beehive. It can be of open and closed type.
There are also beekeepers who place hives on truck or tractor trailers, on which they stay constantly, or only during intensive bee grazing from spring to autumn.
  The most common are open-air beehives, which is the case in most countries with favorable conditions for beekeeping. Such beehives have a number of advantages over closed beehives

   For beginners, so in amateur beekeeping conditions it is best to start with a smaller number of hives (3-5), to reduce the risk of greater damage if due to inexperience or bad weather conditions for bees in the year you started, and when the beekeeper gets acquainted with life and with the work of bees, it will gradually increase the number of hives.

   Special attention should be paid to the choice of the place for the beehive, as well as the arrangement of the hives on it. First of all, the soil in the apiary must be drained, because the life of the hives in such a terrain will be longer, the bees will get less sick from brood and adult bee diseases; the honeycomb will not mold in the nest, the bees will winter better and develop more intensively in the spring, which affects the production of all bee products. That is why it is ideal for the hives to be on a gentle slope facing southeast, so that the first rays of the sun fall on the hives. Wind is also an important factor, so it is best that the hives are placed in the lee and colorful shade. It is best for the land in the apiary to be a lawn that is occasionally mowed and for beehives to be placed on individual movable stands, 30-40 cm high from the ground, which you can make yourself from oak or acacia timber.

   If the terrain on which the apiary is placed allows, it is best to arrange the hives in the so-called chessboard, so that they are about one meter apart in a row, and 2-3 meters in a row. This enables the smooth operation of bees and beekeepers.

   Hives should be kept away from stables, barns, poultry houses, toilets, haylofts and flammable materials. It is very important that the apiary is at least 20 meters away from the roads, so that bees obstructed in their work do not fish passers-by and animals (6 bee stings can kill a person). Bees are very sensitive and irritable to earthquakes, which during their communication with the environment is reflected in increased anger and food consumption during the winter.

   Each hive should have its own clearly marked number, which corresponds to the number in the beekeeping diary in which all operations, works and observations for the respective bee colony are entered

EQUIPMENT FOR STARTING BEEKEEPING:

          –   BEEHIVES (3-5)

          –   BEEKEEPING SUIT

          –   BEEKEEPING TOOLS

          –   ONE COIL OF WIRE (for frame wiring)

         –   
SEVERAL ADDITIONAL FRAMES

         –   BEEKEEPING DIARY (which you can make yourself or You can download here)  


When you have acquired all this, we come to the question:   When to start beekeeping?

   The best moment is in the second half of May. Of course, it is assumed that you have provided the hives, painted them, chosen a place for the apiary and found an experienced beekeeper to provide you with delivery of swarms on frames or a swarm without frames, in which case it is necessary to provide frames with a honeycomb base. Swarms should be on 5 frames, of which 3 frames are full of litters in all stages, and on one end frame there should be food – pollen and honey. Areas with brood should be densely covered with bees of different ages, ie have at least 1 kg (10,000) of bees and a young (from that year) quality fertilized and marked queen should be present, which has already passed. There should be a total of about 3 kg of food on all frames. The day you agreed to take over the swarm, you set off in the afternoon to take your empty hives to the apiary of the beekeeper with whom you agreed to take over the swarms. Swarms should be moved from his hive to you immediately. You take his hive off the stand and put it behind, on the overturned roof, and you put your open hive on the stand. The swarm supplier then removes the bee frames from his hive and places them in the same position in your hive. It is advisable for the beekeeper to find and show you the queen on the frame. When all the frames have been moved to your hive, the bees should be wiped off the cover board, the base and the walls of the brood box where the swarm was. The frames should be placed next to the south wall of the hive and fastened so that they do not move during transport. It is enough to drive one small nail next to the eyelets of the honeycomb end frames and in the middle of the edge of one side bar.

  As soon as the bees stop flying in the evening, you close the entrance to the hives with swarms. It is assumed that the hives are provided with ventilation, ie the supply of fresh air to the bees.

   Swarm hives should be loaded into the vehicle immediately and taken to your apiary. There we place them on prepared stands and after fifteen minutes, while the bees calm down from the migration, we open the entrances to the hives, and so we become beekeepers.

   From the end of May, you, as inexperienced beekeepers, in both cases, will have a lot of time to get to know the bees by the end of the season, additionally add honeycomb bases, feed the swarm and do protection against varroa. This will also be an opportunity to get rid of working with bees and gain some experiences that are much more important than a few kilograms of honey, which you may give up, because the first season of beekeeping should refrain from the lust for squeezing honey. In the first year, you should try to get to know the life of the bee colony and the beekeeping technique as well as possible, and to love the bees as much as possible.

             AND NOW A LITTLE ABOUT THE MOST COMMON ERRORS AND FAILURES IN BEEKEEPING

   Lack of love for bees, negligence, sloppiness, greed, lack of planning, insufficient effort, and investments in training, paying attention to unimportant details and the aesthetic side, neglecting the essence of beekeeping, are all big mistakes that novice beekeepers make.
                                                                       DON’T BE AMONG THEM !!!

   Finally, one more question: IS IT PAID TO BE BEEAKING ???

   If you are ready to dedicate your attention and effort to this business, whether it is for your own needs, or to earn some money, then it pays off and I wish you HONEY BEEKEEPING.

   If you want to get rich overnight, without a little effort, hmmm… then you are not for this job and unfortunately this is not the page for you.

This video is about Mr. Egorov experience of breeding bees in plastic bottles and kegs. He is trying to find a way to promote the spread of non-commercial beekeeping…

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